Stylin': African-American Expressive Culture, from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit by Shane White and Graham White
In this book, Shane White and Graham White consider the deeper significance of how African Americans have dressed, walked, danced, arranged their hair, and communicated in silent gestures. They ask what elaborate hairstyles, bright colours, bandanas, long watch chains, and zoot suits, for example, have meant, and discuss style itself as an expression of deep-seated cultural imperatives. Their wide-ranging exploration of Black style from its African origins to the 1940s reveals a culture that differed from that of the dominant racial group in ways that were often subtle and elusive.
You can order and read the book here: https://www.amazon.com/Stylin-African-American-Expressive-Beginnings/dp/0801482836